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Drone Kits to DIY Build Your Own

A drone is an aircraft without a pilot. It is a robot which flies and is controlled remotely by the control of flight plans using software which is embedded in the drone systems together with GPS and onboard sensors.

A drone kit is a specific term for a drone which is under the control of four rotors. It is also known as a quadrotor, quadrotor helicopter or a quadcopter. On each rotor tends to have a propeller and a motor. The quadrotors are remotely controlled at all times. An onboard computer with pre-program is not used. Blade movement ensures they balance perfectly. Generally, a drone kit is meant for recreation.

Examples of Racing Drone Kits and their Features


The Woafly 220 LHI Quad-copter Kit;

It is the best mini kit frame for a quad-copter and also among the famous in the markets. It has F3 flight, the brushless motor with a DX2205 2300kv and Littlebee speed control which is mini electronic with 20A. I got it for less than 200 dollars.

It contains all necessary hardware for putting up the kit. I used a YouTube video when putting up the drone as there lacks an instruction manual. The kit’s weak point is the camera which is 700TVL, but I am thinking of replacing it.

The kit is well rounded with antennae of 5.8GHz, a board for power distribution, four LEDs, a propeller made of 5045 LHI and protection caps for a motor guard. The kit lacks a battery and remote. The battery I can recommend for use is 1500 mAh and a radio system (above) which is 6CH.

The Simrex X101 Quadcopter (FPV):

It is the best kit for kids, STEM teachers, and beginners in drone use. It is a simple DIY drone building block. It contains a built-in camera, four Motor Combo Propellers, a 3.7V Li-Po battery of 600mAh and a mode two transmitter of 2.4 GHz.

The Targethobby Kit (QAV210)

It is made up of four 2204 Hobby mate motors. This drone kit lacks batteries, camera, and the transmitter. It is manufactured by Targethobby Company and is quite popular. It is cheaper to LHI 220. In case of a crash, fragile parts are protected by the main plate which is thick with pumps at the arms end and numerous mounting holes.

It contains a speed control which is electronic by BLheli (15A ESC). It also includes four motor protectors, one wrench, battery belt, and four Gemfan props. The battery I suggest is 4s or 3s 1500mAh. For optimal experience, 3s I used batteries with mAh ranging from around1800 to 2200. I also used a flight receiver, controller, thread lockers and 3s charger (Li-Po).

The 250FPV SunFounder Drone Kit

I realized it is good for beginners as there are not only step-by-step tutorials on the SunFounder website but also a guide on software debugging. It is a little expensive, but the parts are of high quality and durable. It definitely forms part of the best DIY kits available.

It lacks a camera and a transmitter. Additionally, it has a CC3D controller for flight and four motors (MT2204-2300KV) and a 12A ESC. Its package includes; USB cable, balance charger, Velcro tape, Li-Po battery, zip ties (nylon), cable and power adapters, CW propellers and allen wrench. The OpenPilote firmware is run here together with a speed controller which is electronic.

The DJI Phantom four Pro Plus kit

It has a touch screen transmitter, a 5870mAh battery and twenty Megapixels camera. It is ready to fly on purchasing. It contains two SD cards of 16GB and 64GB, 100W charger for controller and flight battery, a carrying backpack and 3.0 card reader USB.

The Mini iActive FPV Kit

I think it is the ideal quality Race Copter. It is the best kit for people with soldering knowledge in drones and basic electronics knowledge. You will have to get a camera, receiver, transmitter, soldering solder and iron and board for flight control.

It has; four quality Multicopter Motor (MT2204 2300KV), Li-Po battery, four propeller props (6030 CF), a Robocat Fiber frame of carbon and four 12A ESC Simonk. In my opinion, it’s among the best-done frames for an ultimate racing experience.



Why purchase a racing drone kit?

Use of quality components when putting the quadcopter together simply means an easy learning experience. This adds value to the process of learning. Assembling a drone kit means more knowledge on how various parts work.

The assembled quadcopter is used for a while before the need for repair arises. In case of a crash, all that is needed is diagnosing the damaged part, purchase it then do the repair. It can as well be given an upgrade. I suppose it’s more of having an ultimate drone kit with optimized parts.

Development of electronic skills and soldering to enable you to make your own kit.

Create a sense of personal progress and achievement. A kit can be obtained as a ready to fly quadcopter or one for assembling. This is because with a drone kit assembling is left to you and having assembled a functional drone is an achievement.

Spend less for what you want and desire to have; as a beginner, accidents and crashes are bound to happen; which means new parts have to be picked out often. After gaining knowledge and experience, it is easier to get everything for the kit which will mean, less money will be used.

Factors to consider when selecting airframe for a racing quadcopter

Required dimension for the quadrotor. The most used dimensions for a quadrotor standard are ELEV-8 Parallax that is more than two feet across. Consider technical specifications for the drone kit.

The appearance of the quadrotor; use your basement when assembling the drone for a professional look. Ensuring to know where you will mount various aspects of the drone kit.

The material of the craft; the material to be used should be sturdy and lightweight. Plastic, aluminum or both can make the airframe.

Hardware mounting; airframe hardware components should be easily mounted on the craft. Bolts, zip ties, and duct tapes can be used.

The strength of the quadrotor; the crafts often crash. Having a strong frame will ensure the fragile parts are protected in case of a crash. Crashing can be due to technical glitches or batteries running out.

The weight of the craft; a quadrotor should be light in weight. The motors are used for offsetting the chassis weight of the craft. An airframe can be purchased or even homemade.

The drone kit flight control keys

Throttle; for controlling acceleration and altitude, left stick is moved down and up. Raising throttle stick above the center slightly will enable taking off and height gaining. Throttle stick is left at the center position for altitude maintenance. Gradually setting the stick down gradually is essential for landing and is placed fully down when the craft is slightly above the ground.

Yaw; to rotate and change the orientation of the multirotor, left stick is moved horizontally. Right movement results in a clockwise rotation while left movement means an anti-clockwise rotation. Slow rotation is attained by moving the stick just a little distance from the control center. Increasing the distance of the stick from the center will lead to the faster rotation.

Pitch and Roll; for control of the drone kit which is in the air, the stick that is on the right side of the controller is used. Right stick forward movement results in forwarding flying, back mean backward flying. Left stick movement leads to left flying while the right stick movement means right flying. Stick movement and response rate are directly proportional. This means if the stick deflection is large then, more movement by the craft.


Are you a first timer?

There are numerous tips for racing drone kits that I can recommend for beginners in drone use. They include;

Take off the flight when you are confident on the operation of quadcopter and the control.

Always fly your quad-copter in the angle mode first and use both control sticks for correction since angle mode doesn’t maintain position or altitude. This will make flying and hovering easy and fun. If Acro mode is on, the craft will not auto stabilize if the right-sided stick will be in a central position. This means if the craft rolls right, left aileron will be input so as to stabilize the craft. Using angle mode will ensure correction of the situation by automatic centralization of right stick.

The take-off should be when standing behind the craft directly ensuring the craft’s nose points away from where you are. In this position, all the controls are going to be normal. Additionally, it should always take off at an angle.

Hover about four feet above the ground since turbulence makes control hard on hovering too close to land.

For safe flights, maintain a visual contact with your craft. This prevents orientation confusion as well.

Don’t do stick deflections that are extreme or sudden. Always start from low to mild in stick deflections.


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